Original message I_-_MASTERITSASeamless knitting is experiencing a rebirth today. Indeed, he has a lot of advantages, and even on products not from any yarn, the seams will look beautiful and neat.
One of the options for seamless knitting of cardigans and jumpers is raglan. Novice craftswomen try to avoid it, as they are afraid of complex calculations. There is no single and correct formula for raglan.
Firstly, each master has his own secrets in the calculations, to which he came by trial and error. Secondly, it is always necessary to take into account the features of the figure.
This publication contains three master classes on calculating and knitting raglan and four beautiful models of pullovers and cardigans.MODELS WITH RAGLAN..
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Before making calculations for raglan (however, as for everything else), it is necessary to tie a control sample to determine the density of knitting. Important! To avoid errors, do not be too lazy to tie a sample with a size of at least 15cm x 15cm. After that, we determine how many loops fall on 1 cm. To do this, we count the number of loops in 10 cm. Suppose there are 30 loops per 10 cm. Then 1cm = 3p.
We measure the girth of the neck = 36 cm.
These loops must be distributed to the sleeves, front, back and raglan lines.
Let the raglan line consist of 1p. Because there are four raglan lines, then 4 * 1p. \u003d 4p. set aside for raglans. 108 sts left - 4 sts = 104 sts. We divide these loops into 8 parts: 104p.: 8 \u003d 13p. We take one part on the sleeves (13p.) And three parts - on the front and back (13p. * 3 = 39p.). For myself, I mark all the calculations on the diagram, it turns out more clearly and understandably.
Important! If a pattern is used in knitting, its rapport must be taken into account when distributing loops. To keep the beautiful addition of the pattern pattern along the ragged lines, you can slightly change the calculation of the loops in detail, while maintaining their original number.
So that in the finished product there is no crease in the front of the neck and the product does not pull back, it is necessary to make calculations for the neck
RAGLAN CALCULATION FOR KNITTING THE NECK with elongated rows
So that a crease does not gather in the front of the neck in the finished product and the product does not pull back, it is necessary to knit the neck in elongated rows, i.e. include all the loops in the work gradually, following the corrected raglan calculations. This is what will be discussed now.A bit of theory. The neck line consists of the following parts: back, front and upper part of the sleeves. The neck of the back is a straight line. The upper part of the sleeve is a curved line. It is divided into 3-4 parts. The neck of the front is a curved line. In the middle of the front neckline, a horizontal part is left = 4 cm (for an adult). Each part from the middle is divided into 3 equal parts. If there is a remainder, then it is added to the 1st part, counting from the middle of the front. Further, the loops of each part are divided into groups: the 1st part - into triples, the 2nd part - into twos, the 3rd part - into ones.
The knitting of the neck begins from the back with two rear ragged lines and gradually the loops of the sleeves and the front are included in the work. By the time all loops are included in the work, their number on the back and front should be the same. It should be remembered that while only the back and sleeves are knitted, loops are added in the ragged lines of the back, and the number of loops remains the same in the ragged lines of the front. To avoid this difference, it is necessary to recalculate the loops: add the number of loops to the front loops = the number of parts into which the sleeve line is divided, and subtract the number of loops from the back loops = the number of parts into which the sleeve line is divided. From a practical point of view, the number of parts into which the line of the sleeve is divided is the number of receptions for which all the loops of the sleeve will be included in the work.
Now let's move on to correcting the calculations.
The initial calculations were as follows: 13 loops on the sleeves and 39 loops on the back and front. We divide the loops of the sleeves into 3 parts: 13:3 \u003d 4 and the remainder is 1 loop, so the layout of the loops per sleeve is 5, 4 and 4 loops. Then for the back you get 39 loops - 3 loops = 36 loops, for the front 39 loops + 3 loops = 42 loops. The middle of the neck before 4 cm * 3 loops = 12 loops. The remaining number of loops 42p-12p = 30p divided by half, it turns out 15 loops for each half of the front neck. We divide 15 loops into 3 groups: 15: 3 \u003d 5p in each group. Further, following the theoretical calculations and slightly adjusting the breakdown into groups, we get the following combination of loops: 3p 3p 2p 2p 2p 1p 1p 1p. All changes will be reflected in the scheme for raglan.
HOW TO KNIT THE NECK
All calculations and adjustments are made, now you can proceed directly to knitting. It is convenient to start knitting with short circular knitting needles, if there are none available, they can be easily replaced by stocking knitting needles (they are also called knitting needles for knitting socks, 5 pieces are included in the kit). Later, when the number of loops in knitting increases so that they do not have enough space on the stocking needles, it is necessary to switch to circular knitting needles with a long fishing line. Ideally, it is good to use knitting needles with adjustable fishing line, but I have not yet come across such. We will also need marker rings to mark the raglan stitches and the beginning of knitting. If you don’t have them, you can do this: make a few rings out of contrasting yarn and use them for marks.So. Cast on 108 sts on stocking needles. In order to make it easier to understand the principle of knitting raglan, we will knit with the front stitch. I remind you that we will knit in a circle, so we close the knitting in a circle and knit one row of facial ones. Why do this, you ask? This technique will fix the knitting needles better and they will not hang out and twist so much. Personally, my attitude to knitting with stocking needles spoils precisely this initial moment. And after 3-4 connected rows, the fabric rigidly fixes the knitting needles and knitting becomes a song. It’s just worth a little patience, and then it will go on knurled. Therefore, if you are just learning to knit, I advise you to knit this zero row, let's call it that. Then we knit, following the principles of partial knitting in elongated rows.
1st row. We put a ring on the knitting needle, this marks the beginning of knitting. We knit: 5 persons.p. left sleeve, yarn over, put a ring (thus we mark the raglan line), 1 person.p. raglan, yarn, 36 persons.p. backs, yarn, put a ring, 1 person.p. raglan, yarn, 5 persons.p. right sleeve. We unfold knitting.
2nd row. We knit: 5 out.p. right sleeve, we knit a crochet purl, 1 purl. raglan, yarn over. out.p., 36 out.p. backs, yarn over. out.p., 1 out.p. raglan, yarn over. out.p., 5 out.p. left sleeve. We unfold knitting.
3rd row. We knit: 6 persons.p. left sleeve, yarn, 1 person.p. raglan, yarn, 38 persons.p. backs, yarn, 1 person.p. raglan, yarn, 6 persons.p. right sleeve + we include 4 more persons in the work. right sleeve. We unfold knitting.
4th row. We knit: 10 out.p. right sleeve, we knit a crochet purl, 1 purl. raglan, yarn over. out.p., 38 out.p. backs, yarn over. out.p., 1 out.p. raglan, yarn over. out.p., 6 out.p. left sleeve + we include 4 more outs in the work. left sleeve. We unfold knitting.
5th row. We knit: 11 persons.p. left sleeve, yarn, 1 person.p. raglan, yarn, 40 persons.p. backs, yarn, 1 person.p. raglan, yarn, 11 persons.p. right sleeve + we include 4 more persons in the work. right sleeve. We unfold knitting.
6th row. We knit: 15 out.p. right sleeve, we knit a crochet purl, 1 purl. raglan, yarn over. out.p., 40 out.p. backs, yarn over. out.p., 1 out.p. raglan, yarn over. out.p., 11 out.p. left sleeve + we include 4 more outs in the work. left sleeve.
At this stage, all the loops of the sleeves are included in the work. Then we turn on the loops of the ragged lines of the front and the loops of the front neck according to the same principle. When all the loops are included in knitting, we knit in a circle and continue to knit in a circle, adding loops along the ragged lines in every second row to the desired size of the fabric.
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Part 1. Taking measurements
To perform the calculations, we need 12 measurements. You need to measure in well-fitting clothes, girdling around the waist with a slightly stretched tape. The drawing and description of the implementation will help you do this without difficulty.
1. Neck circumference (OS) - measured at the base of the neck, the centimeter tape should pass through the jugular fossa and the seventh cervical vertebra.
2. Chest girth (OG) - measured by the most protruding parts of the chest and shoulder blades
3. Waist circumference (OT) - the centimeter tape runs strictly horizontally along the natural waistline.
4. Girth of the hips at the level of the length of the product (OBdi) - measured horizontally at the level of the length of the product.
* it is most convenient to put on a thing that is suitable in length and measure
5. Circumference of the upper arm (ORm) - measured horizontally along the widest part of the arm.
6. Wrist girth (OZ) - measured horizontally at the junction of the forearm and hand.
7. The length of the raglan front line (DRLp) is a diagonal measure from the middle of the collarbone to the armpit.
* hold a pencil under your arm and measure
** I deliberately do not use the “bust height” measure, which is usually used to determine the length of the raglan line, since for ladies with small breasts this option can still be relevant in uncut options, while owners of curvaceous forms will get a very lowered armhole at the end8. The length of the product to the waistline (CI to LT) is a vertical measure, measured along the body from the armpit to the waistline.
9. The length of the product from the waist line (CI from LT) - a vertical measurement from the waist line to the estimated length of the product.
10. Product length (CI) - a vertical measure, measured along the back from the seventh cervical vertebra to the horizontal line of the product length, taking into account the deflection at the waist line.
* if you knit a thing without fitting, then 8 and 9 measurements are not needed11. Sleeve length on the inside of the arm (DR) - a vertical measurement from the armpit to the hand.
12. Germ height (VR) - measured vertically from the seventh cervical vertebra to the jugular fossa.
* Incorrect measurement name by definition, since a sprout is a cutout for the neck from the middle of the back at the top to the shoulder sections. In our case, this is the knitting of the missing fabric from the side of the back, sleeves and partially front to form a rounded neckline.
* the easiest way to measure on a T-shirt "under the throat" see photo
* the more stooped the figure, the greater this measure.Scheme of taking measurements
In my case, the height of the sprout will be about 6 centimeters.
Part 2. Calculation.
1. We knit a sample, process and measure the density of knitting.
2. We translate centimeters of measurements into loops and rows.
3. Calculation of loops to get started. I use the following measures:
OSH = 90 loops
OG = 184 loops
ORvch \u003d 60 loops
BP = 20 rows
DRLp = 56 rowsLoop distribution scheme.
The width of the raglan line is 2 loops.
90 loops - 8 loops (raglan lines) = 82 loops
82 sts: 6 parts = 13 sts + 4 sts left
1 part for sleeves - 13 loops, 2 parts and ½ remainder for front and back - 26 loops + 2 loops = 28 loopsWe round the loops of the sleeves to a well crushed number, in this case up to 12 loops.
We add 1 loop to the front and back. Total: front and back 29 loops each.Now you need to calculate the part of the sprout knitted to the front raglan lines in parts, the number of which will be equal to the number of loops that must be subtracted from the back and added to the front.
For this, it was necessary to round the number of loops of the sleeve to a normally crushed one.
12 stitches: 3 stitches = 4 pieces
* part = the number of loops transferred from back to front = ½ rows of partial knitting, performed before the ragged lines of the frontThose. subtract 4 loops from the loops of the back and add them to the loops of the front.
Back: 29sts - 4sts = 25sts
Before: 29 loops + 4 loops = 33 loops
The difference between the front and the back is 8 stitches, which we will increase in raglan lines from the back side, knitting 8 rows of partial knitting (in 3 loop steps) to the raglan front lines.
* of course, we also make raglan increases in the sleeves, but these loops are not of interest to us yetThus, in the 8th row, the number of front and back loops will even out - 33 loops.
Based on the fact that the total height of the germ is 20 rows, 8 rows have already been knitted, there are 12 rows of partial knitting with a step of 3 loops.
The length of the raglan front line is 56 rows. We subtract 12 rows already knitted with partial knitting, and we get that 44 more rows need to be knitted.
The following diagram will help to visualize the ratio of the number of added loops to the length of the ragged lines. We add every second row 8 loops (two loops in each raglan line)
Before: raglan line length 56 rows
33 sts (initial) + 28 sts (raglan line increase) + 28st (raglan line increase) \u003d 89 loops
Back: raglan line length 20 p + 44 p = 64 rows
25 p(initial) + 32p(increase) + 32p(increase) = 89 loops
There are 8 loops of raglan lines left, which can be safely added to the body loops.
Total: in front and back there will be 93 loops, which means that we go to the exhaust gas measurement with an error of 2 loops.
Sleeves, as you can see, with an allowance for freedom.
* If the estimated length of the raglan line does not allow you to make the necessary number of increments to achieve the measurement of the exhaust gas, then add the missing loops with undercuts, not forgetting that the undercut is about 8% of the measurement of the exhaust gas.
* If we get more than the OG, the number of loops, then we recalculate the step of the increments of the raglan line (not every 2nd row, but for example every 3rd)The most difficult part of the calculations is over.
4. Calculation of decreases and increases in the body and decreases in the sleeve.
In expanded form, the structure looks something like this.
Now we need measurements:
From the measurements of DR (sleeve length) and CI from lt (Product length from the waist line), we immediately subtract the elastic bands, in my case it is 20 rows 2 * 2 and 4 rows of hollow.
OG = 186 loops (fact)
FROM \u003d 150 loops
OBDI = 178 stitches
oz = 36 loops
CI up to lt = 80 rows
CI from lt = 40 rows
DR = 133 rowsSleeve reductions:
72p - 36p = 36p (need to cut in 133 rows)
36 p: 2p = 18 times (you need to cut two loops in the line of decreases)
18+ 1= 19 equal intervals (because we will not start to decrease immediately under the armpit)
133 rows: 19 times = 7 rows
The bevel of the sleeve is formed by 18 decreases of 2 loops in every 7th row.Hull reductions:
At a height of about 10 cm, a straight section goes from the junction of the ragged lines / undercut.
In this case, 26 rows.* if necessary, at a height of about 3 cm, you can tie a tuck, then continue the straight section of the body
80 rows (CI to LT) - 26 rows (straight section) \u003d 54 rows (decrease line length)
186 p (OG) - 150p (OT) \u003d 36 loops (you need to reduce 2 p in two lines of decreases)
36p: 4= 9 times
54 rows: 9 times = 6 rows
The bevel of the body to the waistline is formed by 9 decreases in each 6th row, 2 loops in two lines of decreases. The first decrease is done in the first row after the straight section of the body, the last - on the waist line.Hull additions:
178 loops (obdi) - 150p (OT) = 28 loops (you need to add in 40 rows (CI from lt) 2 p in 2 lines of increases)
28p: 4= 7 times
7 +1 = 8 equal spaces
40 rows: 8 pieces = 5 rows
The bevel of the body from the waist line is formed by 7 increments in each 5th row, 2 loops in two increment lines. The last increase in the last, before the elastic, row.Everything. The general work plan is outlined, you can start knitting.
Part 3. Beginning of knitting.
1. In any convenient way that provides an elastic edge, we collect 90 loops.2. Auxiliary row of facial.
3. We unite in a circle. The second auxiliary row is facial.
4. We mark the future raglan lines (pink threads) and the central front loop. This can be done with markers, thread, safety pins. What is convenient for you.
The beginning of vyvyazyvaniye sprout.
The sprout will be knitted by partial knitting. The general principle and how to make sure that there are no holes can be seen in the video. If this technique is new to you, then do not be lazy, try it on a sample.
5. The first row is the front. The beginning of knitting is the right raglan line of the back.
We knit a raglan line, make a crochet, knit two loops, remove the third with a loop.6. We turn knitting to the wrong side. Second row. We remove the loop with a loop, we knit two, we knit a crochet, two loops of a raglan line. We raise the second increase of the raglan line from the broach.
We knit two loops, remove the third with a twist
7. The third row is front. We tighten the wrap around the first loop.
We remove the loop, knit 2, yarn over, 2 loops of the raglan line, yarn over, back loops, yarn over, knit 2, we lift the loop to the loop and knit with it.
2 facial, 3rd we remove with a twist.
8. The fourth is purl, the fifth is the front, the sixth is the purl, we knit in the same way, knitting 3 loops of the sleeves.
9. The seventh is the front. The last front row to the raglan front line.
10. The eighth row is purl. We knit the last 3 loops to the raglan front line.
At this stage, the number of loops in front and back is aligned.
It looks like this.12. Tenth - purl. We raise the raglan increments from the broaches.
And we knit three loops of the front.
13. Thus, we knit to the eighteenth row, the last row of purl.
We do not remove the last loop in this row with a twist, but simply knit it.
14. Nineteenth row. The first row of circular knitting facial. In fact, this is one and a half rows, for aligning circular knitting.
Yarn over, slip off the first stitch.We knit the first raglan line (left raglan front line) without crochets, sleeve loops, nakid, raglan line (left raglan line of the back - it is also the beginning of knitting), yarn, back, yarn, raglan line, yarn, sleeve, yarn, raglan line, nakid, front loops, knit nakid with together with the loop in front of it
Remaining front loops, yarn over, raglan line, yarn over, sleeve loops.
That. having knitted one and a half rows, we came to a logical starting point for the beginning of circular knitting.15. Twentieth row. Full circular knitting, we knit all the crochets.
It looks like this when finished. The beginning of knitting is the left raglan line of the back.Part 4. Knitting the body with and without undercuts. Sleeves.
Undercut option.
1. We reset the loops of the sleeves (without loops of ragged lines) onto the thread.
2. In any way convenient for you, we collect undercut loops. In my case, a set of air loops.
3. We close in a circle.
4. We knit about 5-7 rows (up to the height of the tuck, if necessary)
5. We transfer the loops of the sleeve from the thread to the knitting needles
6. We collect loops from raglan lines (2 each) and from undercut loops.
7. We knit the loops typed from the raglan lines, two together. We outline the middle of the line of decreases.
8. Upon reaching the estimated length, we perform reductions in the bevel of the sleeve.
Uncut option.
1. We drop the loops of the sleeves on the thread. And we combine the front and back in circular knitting without additional loops. We knit a straight section of the body.
2. In order not to have holes in the armpit, you need to dial three additional loops from the loops of the body sheet.
The needle only shows from which, we collect the thread.3. We knit ...
4. We perform reductions in the bevel line of the sleeve.
Two together front behind the front wall.We unfold the loop.
Two together front behind the back wall.
5. Similarly, we perform the second sleeve.
6.Sleeve.
Tied up the reductions to the calculated numbers. We knit an elastic band so that the cuffs are not too tight.
We start with a line of decreases - two facial ones. We knit one purl, we knit the second crossed from a broach, * two facial, purl, purl from a broach *, etc.Part 5. Neck. Frame.
1. Neck.
We transfer the loops to the knitting needle. Weave two additional rows. We knit with the same increments as in the elastic bands of the sleeves.Because knitting in the opposite direction gives a difference of half a loop, then in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ragged lines I knitted three front ones so that the shift looked symmetrical.
2. Finishing the body.
We knit a straight section.We carry out reductions of bevels to the waist line.
Then, increase the bevels from the waist line.
We finish the work with an elastic band.
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Knitting basics - where to start for a beginner
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Building a pattern for a pullover with a raglan sleeve
▬▬ HERE
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Stitch markers (stitchmarkers) ... do it yourself ☆ master class
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13 different ways to cast on
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Jacquard - basics and master class
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Sincerely, Alena Kim (© MerlettKA® ™)
I wish you great mood and inspiration!!!
A stylish vest will look good with jeans, as well as with a skirt or formal trousers.
Size: 38
For knitting you will need: 450 g of MONDIAL MERINO MAXI lilac-pink yarn (50% merino wool, 50% acrylic, 60 m / 100g.) Straight needles N° 7.5, 1 auxiliary needle No. 7.5, pick-up pins, darning needle
To get the product 1 size more/less than the specified one, you need to add/decrease 4 cm (4 p.) in width, 2 cm (4 p.) in length.
Double elastic: With a contrasting thread, dial half of the required loops; 1st p.: with a working thread, knit * 1 person., 1 yarn over *. repeat from * to *. 2nd p.: * knit a crochet of faces., remove 1 p. as out., without knitting, thread before work *, repeat from * to *; 3rd and subsequent r.: * 1 person., remove 1 p. as out., thread before work ', repeat from * to *; dissolve the contrasting thread in the finished part.
Facial surface: persons. R. - persons. p., out. R. - out. P.
Wrong surface: persons. R. - out. p., out. R. - persons. P.
Braid (8 p.): 1st p .: all persons .; 2nd and all even rows: all loops out .; 3rd row: 8p. cross to the left (leave 4 sts on the auxiliary knitting needle before work, 4 faces and knit loops with the auxiliary knitting needles of the faces.); 5th, 7th and 9th p.: all faces .; 11th p.: repeat the rapport of the 1st p.
Knitting density, front surface: 11 p. and 15 p. = 10 x 10cm.
Back and shelves with sleeves they are knitted with one cloth: dial 63 p. and tie 4 p. (1 cm) double elastic band. Then knit as follows, evenly decreasing in the 1st p. 1 x 3 p.: 8 p. braids, 1 p. out. smooth, 16 p. persons. smooth, 1 p. out. smooth, 8 p. braids, 1 p. out. smooth, 16 p. persons. smooth, 1 p. out. smooth, 8 p. braids. At the same time, add on both sides within each group of 1 b p. Persons. iron in every 2nd p. 12 x 1 p. (= 108 p.). After 29 cm from the beginning of the gum, put aside all the loops. Run the bevels of the armholes, sleeves and neckline as follows: for the sleeves, dial separately 3-7 p., tie 4 p. (1 cm) double elastic band and set aside all loops; for the bevels of the armhole, dial all the pending loops of the vest and knit the first 25 p., set aside the next 8 p. (right armhole) on the pin, dial the middle 25 p. set aside the next 8 p. (left armhole) on a pin, dial the middle 25 p. Next, knit according to the pattern, knitting the loops of the sleeves of the faces. satin stitch and decreasing in the next p. among the loops of each sleeve 1 x 1 p. For the neckline, decrease on both sides, after the first 9 and before the last 9 p. 12 x 1 p.; at the same time, for bevels, armholes are reduced on both sides inside each sleeve in every 2nd p. 11 x 1 p. After 17 cm from the beginning of the bevels of the armhole and neck, tie on all loops of the b p. (1.5 cm) with a double elastic band and close all loops with a knitted seam. Kettle the postponed sleeve loops to the postponed armhole loops.
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How to knit a raglan top without seams Hello, my dears! In this detailed master class, I want to introduce you to one of the ways how to knit a raglan from above. As an example, consider knitting from the neck of a children's blouse with a raglan sleeve entirely without seams. When knitting from the neck from top to bottom, you can try on a thing at any time and adjust its size - the width and length of both the entire product and the sleeves. You do not need to bother with knitting armholes and sleeves, the product lies well on the shoulders and does not gather around the armpits (as in models knitted evenly - without an armhole line). It is very convenient for knitting children's things also in the sense that the thing can "grow" with the child. After all, children grow very quickly, and moreover, they grow mainly in height. If a children's sweater beautifully knitted by you from high-quality yarn suddenly becomes short, or the sleeves become short, you can easily dissolve the closed bottom loops and just knit them. And even if there is almost no such yarn left, come up with an option with multi-colored stripes or a jacquard pattern. In the master class, for greater clarity, I specifically consider a variant of the model, connected mainly by stocking knitting, with a simple design of a raglan line. If you master this knitting method, you can then apply it to knit sweaters of any size, with other patterns and other ragged lines. Raglan line The meaning of the raglan line (hereinafter I will write RL for short) consists in the uniform addition of loops along it - from the neckline to the line of the armpits. As a rule, after one row, 1 loop should be added on each side along each of the four RL. In the method that I will show in this MK, 2 loops will be added every 3 rows (in every 4th row), which is the same for the total number of loops added. The method is as follows: in each 4th row in the face of the work, you need to knit 5 from 3 loops (front, yarn over, front, yarn over, front). These fans come in pairs, one on each side of the details of the back, front and sleeves, and in contact with each other form this RL: Note: At the junction of the fans, small holes are obtained in the form of an openwork. If you want to use the same RL, but without openwork, then you can insert an additional 1 loop between the fans and knit it with either the wrong side or the front stitch. Getting started and the upper part of the product I will conduct a master class on a specific example of a simple model of a children's sweater and with a specific calculation of loops. I will get a small blouse for a baby about 1 year old. But for work I used thin yarn "Pekhorka - Children's Caprice" and circular knitting needles 2.5 mm. If you take thicker yarn and knitting needles, then with the same number of loops and rows you will get a larger product. Focus on your measurements and knitting density. In this MK, I will not dwell on how to calculate loops for knitting raglan from the neck, since this is the topic of a separate article in which this is described in detail. Here the goal is to show the process itself. So, we collect 52 loops, of which: 24 loops on the back, 10 loops on the sleeves (10 x 2 \u003d 20 p.), And further, ATTENTION: we do not dial the loops for the front, only the loops for its two RL are 3 x 2 = 6 loops, +2 edge loops. We do not collect loops for the front detail, because we will gradually add them along the edges in the process of knitting with air loops - to form a deepening of the neckline. If this is not done, then the product will “pull” back and sit badly! This is one of the mistakes knitters make when knitting raglan from the neck. And now in detail in rows: After knitting the first row, loops for the RL, back and sleeves are distributed. Note: as you understand, from the number of loops that we have for the back and sleeves, we subtracted 6 loops for the RL. In the same way, you need to do it in the case of performing other types of RL - the number of loops necessary for knitting them, subtract from the total number of loops for the back or sleeve, and knit the remaining loops with the main pattern. You can change the number of loops for the back and sleeves to suit your size. 2nd row (wrong side of work): purl all loops, add 1 air loop at the end of the row. How to knit air loops (hereinafter - VP) is shown in great detail in this lesson. 3rd row: knit an air loop at the beginning of the row with a crossed facial loop, then all loops are facial. At the end of the row, add 1 VP. 4th row: VP at the beginning of the row, knit with a purl crossed loop, then knit all the loops with purl, and at the end of the row add 2 VP already. 5th row: 2 VP, dialed in the previous row, knit with facial crossed loops, 4 facial (loops for the front), from 3 loops 5 (2 times in a row), 8 facial (sleeve loops), from 3 loops 5 (2 times), 22 facial (back loops), from 3 loops 5 (2 times), 8 facial (sleeve loops), from 3 loops 5 (2 times), 4 facial (front loops), in end of row 2 ch. This is what knitting looks like at the end of the 5th row. The outlined RLs are already visible, and at the end of the row you see 2 VPs: Now you can carry out a control loop count. The number of loops on the back and front should be equal. Now, after the 5th row, for the backrest in total (together with the RL loops) we have 32 loops, and for the shelves - 11 loops each. Therefore, for the shelves, you need to add 5 more loops to get 16 loops, and then there will be as many loops for the front as for the back (16 x 2 = 32 p.). Therefore, we knit further: 6th row: knit 2 VP at the beginning of the row with purl crossed, then all the loops are purl, at the end of the row 5 VP. 7th row: we knit 5 VP with crossed front ones, then all the front loops, at the end of the row 5 VP. 8th row: 5 VP knit crossed purl, then - all purl loops. Now we have the same number of back and front loops, and there is no need to add air loops. We continue to knit simply in stocking stitch, at the same time doing the RL, as described above, and knitting the hem to get a chain-like edge (we remove the first one, the last one is wrong side). Important Notes: If you are knitting a larger piece, then you need to add loops for the front in accordance with your size and the desired depth of the neckline. So, after adding 2 VPs, in the next rows you add 3 or 4 VPs each, you can add 3 VPs several times in a row, then a large number of loops to equal the number with the back - this all needs to be adjusted for each product and cutout individually. If you plan to knit a one-piece fastener strap, then in addition to the front loops, you need to get more air loops on each side of the loop for the straps - loops of 5-6, and accordingly knit them already, like straps, performing welt loops on one of them. In my version of MK, I suggest that the straps be tied separately later. If you plan to knit a product without a fastener, like a sweater, or a pullover, then after the number of loops in front and back is equal, you need to connect the ends of the row and continue to knit in a circle. Continuation of knitting back and front Next, we continue to knit, adding loops with the help of the RL, until we reach the line of the armpits. You can determine this either by trying on the product for the future owner, or guided by the dimensions of the pattern - we look at the length of the RL (in my case it is 16 cm), as well as the width of the back-front and sleeves. Then we proceed as follows. On the front side of the work we knit the loops of the front (left shelf) inclusive with the front loops of the RL front loops (we no longer do additions of 3 loops 5). Next, we reshoot the loops of the sleeve with the loops of its RL inclusive using a knitting needle on a thick thread of a contrasting color, we tie the ends of the thread. We continue to knit back loops. Having knitted to the second sleeve, we re-shoot its loops on a thread in the same way, and then we knit the row to the end with the loops of the right shelf. Now we only have the loops of the back and front on the needles: We continue to knit the main “body” of the jacket evenly to the length you need. As I already wrote at the beginning of the article, it is not difficult to determine the length now - just try on this, for now, sleeveless jacket. Fortunately, both circular knitting needles with a flexible connection, and the fact that the loops of the sleeves are assembled on an elastic thread, allow this to be done without difficulty. Well, if there is no one nearby to try on, we check the sizes according to the pattern.
Hand-knitted product, made without seams, looks very neat and pretty. Raglan is knitting of clothes with a continuous seamless fabric for the upper body. Not every knitter decides to take on this particular method of knitting a sweater or sweater, citing the fact that knitting a stylish raglan with knitting needles is a difficult task. But actually it is not.
If you correctly calculate the loops and follow certain knitting rules, then there should be no problems and difficulties during knitting. This article is dedicated to all those beginner needlewomen who want to learn how to knit a simple but fashionable raglan from the neck (top) on their own and learn how to do it correctly and quickly. As a nice addition, at the end of the master class, we attach a free video tutorial.
Raglan line and patterns for knitting it
Before you start knitting, you need to understand: what is a raglan line (hereinafter LR)? These are loops on which yarns are made on both sides so that the knitted fabric expands. The raglan line can consist of one loop. The photo shows a canvas, the LR of which consists of 1 purl loop.
And in the next photo you can see a line of three facial loops. Here, pay attention to the fact that the yarns of the upper part of the fabric are knitted from the wrong side with a simple wrong side loop, so holes are obtained along the line. The nakida on the bottom of the fabric are knitted from the wrong side with purl crossed loops, so the holes are almost invisible.
LR can be performed in a variety of patterns. Look at the photo below - the LR is made of 4 loops with a flagellum pattern.
It is advisable for beginners to start with a simple option - LR from one purl loop. In this case, it will be easier to calculate the loops and navigate in knitting.
If you are just learning to knit, try knitting - a great way to learn a new technique and make a warm gift for your loved ones.
We try to knit in the direction from the neck: calculation of loops
In order to knit raglan with knitting needles from above, the first thing to do is to measure the circumference of the neck, since knitting occurs in the direction from top to bottom. The second is to knit a 10x10 cm pattern sample and count the number of loops in it. Based on the number of loops needed to make the neckline and the number of loops per 10 cm of the pattern sample, the following calculations are made.
For example, the circumference of the neck is 18 cm. There are 2.5 loops in 1 cm of the pattern. By multiplying these numbers, you get the total number of loops: 18 X 2.5 = 45.
Now you need to calculate how many loops will be used to knit the back, sleeves and front. To do this, divide the total number of loops by 3. It turns out 45: 3 \u003d 15. This means that 15 loops go to the back, 15 loops to the front, and another 15 loops to the sleeves. Part of the loops intended for the sleeves must be divided into 2 - for each sleeve. Next, from the loops of the sleeve, calculate 4 loops for the raglan line, divide the remainder into two sleeves (15-4 = 11). In our case, 11 by 2 cannot be divided without a remainder, so we leave 10 loops for the sleeve, and give one to the front loops. As a result, we get: 15 p. - back, 5 p. - sleeve, 16 p. - before, 4 p. for raglan lines.
Rule for calculating loops: divide the total number of loops into 3 parts, then the part for the sleeves by another 2, add all the rest to the front loops, always take raglan loops from the loops of the sleeves.
The loops are calculated, now you need to correctly type them on the knitting needles. Important! The sequence is this and only this: 1 loop for the right side of the front, 1 loop for the raglan line, 5 loops for the right sleeve, 1 loop of the raglan line, 15 loops for the back, 1 loop of the raglan line, 5 loops of the left sleeve, 1 loop of the raglan line, 1 loop of the left side of the front.
It is worth paying attention to the knitting of the neck with knitting needles -. We are sure that if you read this material, you will never again have difficulties with strapping.
Step-by-step master class on knitting a children's pullover using the raglan method
After you have calculated the loops and typed them on the knitting needles, start knitting as follows:
Raglan and regular sleeves
1 - 9 row. 1 air loop (the photo below will show how to perform this loop), 1 person. loop of the right shelf, 1 nak., 5 persons. sleeves, 1 na., 1 out. raglan lines, 1 stitch, 15 persons. backs, 1 on., 1 out. raglan lines, 1 stitch, 5 persons. sleeves, 1 na., 1 out. raglan lines, 1 stitch .. 1 person. left shelf and 1 air. P.
2 row and all out. air p. - purl loops, nakida - out. crossed.
11 row. Get on both sides 2 air. n. and close the work in a circle. The loops on the front of the product should be 1 more than on the back.
Continue knitting until you have loops for the sleeves. When the required number of loops for the sleeves is dialed, remove them on the auxiliary thread and leave them out of work. Gather back and front sts in a circle and continue knitting them in rounds (no more yarn overs). When the product reaches the desired length, transfer the work to the knitting needles with a smaller number, and work several rows of elastic. Close the loops, cut the thread.
Go back to knitting sleeves. Tie a thread and transfer the loops to 4 knitting needles. Mark the beginning of knitting with a stitch marker or a pin. Work raglan in the round, dec to form the bevel of the sleeve where the marker is in every 6th row as follows: 2 sts together, 2 sts together in broach. Thus, knit until the sleeve is the length you need. Rib the last few rows. Close the loops.
Knit the second sleeve in the same way. Now let's move on to the neck.
On the neck line, dial 1 loop from each loop and knit an elastic band of the desired size. Close the loops.
The children's raglan pullover is finished.
Knitting technique from below for beginners with a job description
Raglan can also be knitted from the bottom up. But in this case, first all the details are knitted separately to the place where the armhole begins. That is, they tied the back to the armholes and put off knitting without closing the loop, then they also tied it in front and put it off. Do the same for the sleeves. When all 4 parts are knitted to armholes, type them on circular needles in the following sequence: front, sleeve, back, sleeve.
Next, knit in circular rows if it is a sweater or in rows in the back and forth direction if it is a sweater with shelves. Loops along the raglan line are reduced evenly at the beginning of the row after the finishing strip and at the end of the row - before it. When the product is connected, sew the side lines and sleeves.
Raglan sleeve with detailed analysis of each step
The raglan sleeve is very practical, as it allows the arm to move freely without constraining or restricting movement.
When making a raglan sleeve, it is important to properly tie the raglan bevels. Read the detailed explanation in the master class by clicking on the highlighted text.
Detailed description for beginners
Knitting in this case is done from the bottom up in separate parts.
When the knitting of the sleeve reaches the desired height (to the armhole), to form the armhole, you need to close 1 time 3-4 loops. The subsequent rows are knitted with decreases on each side, 1 st in each 2nd row, knitting 1 or 2 extreme loops. Decrease until you have completed all the decreases calculated at the beginning of knitting.
On the sleeves, at the height of the armhole, the number of loops should be equal to the sum of the loops decreased for the raglan bevels on the back, plus on the front, plus 6 or 8 loops for the shoulder line.
Decrease at the beginning of the row is performed as follows: on the right, after the first 2 or 3 loops of the row, tie 2 loops together with a tilt to the left.
Decrease at the end of the row is performed as follows: on the left, before the 2nd or 3rd last loops of the row, knit 2 loops together with the front ones.
Children's raglan sweater for a little girl 3-4 years old
Seamless knitted clothing is the best fit for children, as the seams do not rub or press on sensitive delicate skin. Therefore, the raglan knitting method helps us a lot in creating knitted things for kids.
This summer raglan blouse for a girl will be very good. If you want such a knitted blouse for a boy, then change the pattern and select the desired thread color. And the style of the sweater will suit both girls and boys.
This model of blouse is suitable for a child of 3-4 years old.
Materials: yarn - 100% cotton, knitting needles No. 3.
patterns."Flowers". Cast on 17 sts on needles.
1 row. 7 persons., 1 knot (from 1 loop, knit 5 loops without removing from the knitting needle: 1 purl, 1 facial, 1 purl, 1 facial, 1 purl), 7 persons.
2 row . 7 out., 5 loops (knot) knit together inside out, 7 out.
3 row. 6 persons., 1 knot, 1 persons., 1 knot, 6 persons.
4 row. 6 out., 5 loops (knot) knit together inside out, 6 out.
5 row. Knit as 1st row.
6 row . Knit as 2nd row.
"Ropes" - garter stitch: all loops are knitted in the front and in the front rows, and in the back rows.
Step-by-step master class with visual diagrams
Cast on 92 sts and work 2 cm in rib 2x2. Then distribute all the loops as follows: 11 loops - half of the back, 22 loops - sleeve, 22 loops - front, 22 loops - the second sleeve and 11 loops - the second half of the back. The remaining 4 loops are connecting. They are intended to form raglan lines, on both sides of which yarns are made: 8 loops in each person. row. After distributing the loops, knit 11 knit., 1 yarn, 1 knit, 1 yarn, 22 knit, 1 yarn, 1 knit, 1 yarn, 22 knit, 1 yarn, 1 knit, 1 yarn, 22 knit, 1 yarn, 1 knit, 1 yarn, 11 knit From the wrong side, knit all the loops, including the crochets, from the wrong side. loops. Thus, knit a total of 7 rows in stocking stitch, making additions in each face. a row of 8 loops.
Further, when knitting a strip of a sweater pattern, alternate in the following sequence: 1 row - persons. loops on the wrong side, 3 rows - stocking knitting, 1 row - persons. loops on the wrong side, 3 rows - hosiery knitting, 6 rows of the "rope" pattern, that is, faces. loops on the face and the wrong side of the work (2 rows knitted with faces. loops are considered as 1 row of the “rope” pattern), 4 rows of stocking knitting.
Flower strip (knit according to the pattern): 4 rows - stocking stitch, 6 rows - rope pattern: 3 rows - stocking stitch; 1 row - persons. loops on the wrong side; 3 rows - stocking; 1 row of people. loops on the wrong side.
Knit all parts of the blouse with raglan until the length reaches 12 cm.
Then continue to knit all the details separately. To do this, the loops of the sleeves and halves of the back must be removed with pins or additional threads. Work just before 12 cm in stocking st down and finish with 4 cm in 2x2 ribbing. Then transfer the loops of both halves of the back to the knitting needle, connect them and knit in the same way as before, 12 cm down and finish with 4 cm of 2x2 elastic. Next, transfer the sleeve loops to the knitting needles and knit down 2-3 cm in stocking or garter stitch and finish with an elastic band 2x2 2 cm.
Fold the finished product in half and sew in front with a back along the side height. Then, without tearing off the thread, sew the sleeves. On the right side of the back section, crochet 5 loops for buttons. Sew 5 buttons on the left side of the back slit. Moisturize and steam the product.
You can also decorate the finished jacket with beautiful knitted flowers.
Beautiful women's raglan pullover for a gentle look
The snow-white openwork women's pullover, made in the "raglan" way, will give the image of tenderness, lightness and a touch of romance.
The size of this model is 42-44.
Materials. Cotton / acrylic / viscose yarn - 650 g, knitting needles and circular needles No. 5.5.
Hole pattern.- Cast on an even number of stitches.
- Persons and out. ranks. * 1 yarn over, 2 sts together out. *. Repeat from * to *.
- Out. smooth surface. Persons R. knit out. p., out. R. knit faces. P.
- Persons smooth surface. Persons R. knit faces. p., out. R. knit out. P.
Braid pattern of 6 loops
- 1-6 rows: persons. expanse
- 7 row: 6 p. cross to the left (leave 3 p. on the auxiliary knitting needle before work, 3 persons, knit loops with auxiliary knitting needles.)
- 8 row: out. P.
- Repeat the pattern from the 1st to the 8th p.
Knitting density. 18 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
Detailed description of knitting for beginners
Back.Cast on 84 sts and knit as follows: 1 chrome, 22 sts hole pattern, * 6 sts braid pattern, 2 sts hole pattern *, repeat 4 times from * to *, 20 sts. hole pattern, 1 chrome.
After 1 cm (= 2 p. from the typesetting edge), continue knitting after and before chrome. p. 20 p. persons. satin stitch.
After 33 cm from the beginning of knitting, to form a raglan bevel, you need to close 1 p. on both sides and reduce in each 2nd p. 13 times 2 p. as follows: 1 double broach on the first 3 loops after chrome. (remove 1 p., 2 p. knit together faces. and stretch it through the removed p.), knit 3 p. together faces. before chrome.
After 44 cm from the start of work, put the remaining 30 sts on an additional thread.
Front.
Knit in the same way as the back.
Sleeves.
Cast on 44 sts and knit as follows: 1 chrome, 2 sts hole pattern, * 6 sts braid pattern, 2 sts hole pattern *, repeat 4 times from * to *, 1 chrome.
At the same time, on both sides, add in each 4th p. 5 times 1 p. And in every 2nd p. 15 times 1 p. Add the added loops to the pattern of holes (= 84 p.).
After 20 cm from the beginning of knitting, decrease to form a raglan bevel in the same way as for the back.
After 31 cm from the start of work, put the remaining 30 sts on an additional thread.
Knit the second sleeve in the same way as the first.
Assembly.
On circular knitting needles, pick up from the auxiliary threads the loops of the back, left sleeve, front, right sleeve. There should be only 120 loops. Knit further a pattern of holes in rows "forward - back". IMPORTANT: you need to start and end the row in the center of the back, while evenly decreasing 32 loops (= 88p.). It turns out the neck strap. When the strap reaches 4 cm, close all the loops.
Run all the seams: on the placket, raglan seams, seams of the side lines, seams of the sleeves. Moisturize and steam the product.
In this technique, you can knit a lot of beautiful clothes, for example, the description for which we provide in a separate, dedicated article.
Women's knitted blouse on top for cool days
Warm and comfortable women's raglan jacket will always keep you warm in cold weather and, in addition, will give the image elegance and femininity. A beret made with the same thread as the jacket will add extra charm and charm.
Materials. Acrylic yarn - 500g, knitting needles No. 6.
Fantasy pattern. Knit according to the scheme shown in the photo below.
Step-by-step MK with a description and diagrams
Right shelf.On the knitting needles, dial 57 p. And knit according to the scheme with a fantasy pattern. At a height of 17 cm from the beginning of knitting, decrease 4 sts from the left edge in each row. Thus, knit 4 cm (= 21 cm from the typesetting edge). Close all loops.
Left shelf.
The left shelf of the raglan sweater is knitted symmetrically to the right shelf.
Back.
Cast on 35 sts on the needles and knit according to the scheme with a fantasy pattern, adding 4 sts from the right edge until there are 57 sts on the needles. At a height of 48 cm from the start of work, decrease from the right edge in each row 4 p. At a height of 52 cm from the start of the loop, close.
Sleeves.
On the knitting needles, dial 34 p. And knit 7 cm with an elastic band 2 X 2. Next, go to knitting according to the pattern with a fantasy pattern. To expand the sleeves, add on both sides in every 6th p. 1 st each until there are 56 sts on the needles. At a height of 43 cm from the start of work, decrease on both sides in each p. 1 p each. At a height of 13 cm from the beginning of the decrease, tie another 8 cm with a fantasy pattern. Close all loops.
Assembly of parts.
Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew side seams and sleeve seams. On the lower edge of the sweater on the knitting needles, cast on loops and knit a 7 cm strap with an elastic band 2 X 2. To form straps along the sides on the knitting needles, cast on loops and knit 6 cm with a 2 X 2 elastic band. To make a collar along the neckline on the knitting needles, cast on loops and knit 8 cm with an elastic band 2 X 2. Moisten the product, spread it out and let it dry.
Scheme and pattern:
Knitting from various yarns allows you to create real miracles!
Educational video lesson
Here is the promised tutorial video.
Products knitted using the raglan technique look neat and beautiful. Devote a few evenings to knitting any product using this technique, and you will understand that it is not difficult, but very interesting and exciting.