We knit on knitting machines. Eight secrets of machine knitting. Knitting machine classes

Greetings! Today I will reveal a few "secrets" of knitting on a machine. I think this information will be very useful for those who are just planning to take up machine knitting.

In particular, we will talk about yarn that can be used when knitting on a machine. And also, about some important points of the knitting process, which are revealed over time, as a result of numerous mistakes and many hours of searching.

What yarn is needed for machine knitting?
Why are loops reset?
How to replace a spoke in a load holder?
How to rewind threads?

I’m sure similar questions arise for many who take up a knitting machine for the first time.

The word “secrets” in this case is quite arbitrary, because no one specifically hides such information. It’s just that over time you begin to learn the true meaning of the expression that “a smart person learns from the mistakes of others.” Indeed, this allows you not only to save time, but also to save your nerves, which are spent a lot in the first days of mastering the intricacies of machine knitting.

Therefore, I offer this article to beginners as food for thought and an opportunity to avoid some problems when knitting on a Silver Reed 840 machine.

Read also the next article in this series « »

__________________________________________________________

The article is structured in the form of an “interview”, since the reason for writing it was some questions received by mail. If you also have new questions, please ask them in the comments, because I don’t always have time to answer in private. And here the answers will be available to other visitors.

___________________________________________________________

First. Is it possible to knit on a machine with the same yarn used for knitting and crocheting?

Yes, on a machine you can knit not only with special yarn - in bobbins. But also with threads intended for hand knitting. They look like this, i.e. sold in skeins.

But for this you need a winder. When we first assembled our knitting machine, of course, we immediately began looking for information about what threads to knit with. Almost everywhere it was written that threads that were industrially collected into bobbins should be used. In the store where we first chose yarn, they also said that we should buy a whole bobbin. When we asked how to knit several threads from such a large bobbin, we received the answer that we could order it and they would rewind us the required quantity. Or, you need to purchase a winder.

It turned out that we constantly had to make an order in advance. Moreover, at that time we had no idea how many threads went into products, etc. Moreover, we could not even imagine what a ball should look like when it was rewound. It’s good that the store itself had such balls ready-made. So, during the first rewind, we already had some idea of what should happen in the end.

Second. What types of winders are there? And where can I buy such a rewinding device?

As far as I know, there are different reels, including electric ones. But today we are quite satisfied with the device for manual rewinding from the Camma company, which we immediately bought at the Verbena store (Ufa). Then, in 2012, its price was 1000 rubles. I was very happy about this, because I saw them on the Internet for 1,500 rubles. Now, that is, in November 2014, I saw 1300 rubles in a store.

I won’t give any special advice about where to buy them, since everyone lives in different regions. One thing I can say from personal experience is that of all the stores where we buy yarn, we only found them in Verbena.

In addition, I saw that they offer exactly these on the Odnoklassniki social network, also at a very reasonable price. True, I can’t give a link; I don’t remember who I saw it from. But if someone needs it, I can look for it.

I will quote part of the text from the specified page:

“Proper preparation of the thread for knitting is very important. This will make the knitting process easier and more enjoyable. In addition, the quality of your products will noticeably improve. It is impossible to knit with thread from a skein or ball wound by hand. We recommend using a winder to wind the yarn into balls suitable for machine knitting.”

Now, when we need to knit with thread in two or three folds, we rewind from the main bobbin, that is, we prepare more skeins. And we knit, for example, in two threads, like this.

Third. How to rewind knitting threads on a machine?

To knit with hand knitting yarn, it MUST be rewound. This can be done, for example, using a hand winder.

I must say that this is another difficult moment that we had to overcome. It turned out that it was not enough to buy a winder. I had to figure out how to wind the threads around it. The store did not explain this, they said that there were instructions, they say, everything is clear in it.

Yes, everything was clear, except for one thing - so what is there to reel in? If you directly onto the cone of the winder, when you remove the resulting ball, it does not hold its shape and tends to fall on its side. Although, in the photo in the Instructions that I showed earlier, it looks like the tip of the thread is pulled out from the middle.

It was then that an idea came that would seem strange to those uninitiated in the action of machine knitting (to say the least:). They began to use toilet paper rolls as the base on which the thread was wound. And, thanks to which it holds the entire ball perfectly.

If necessary, see the detailed photo-MK, which showed:

what does a hand reel look like,
how to use bushings as cones,
what a skein should look like ready for knitting on a machine, etc.

Fourth. Why put yarn in pots?

One day a letter came with the following question. The girl was perplexed why some websites recommend putting threads in pots while knitting.

This feeling of surprise was very familiar to us, because a kind stranger in the store advised approximately the same thing when we, being complete beginners, were choosing yarns: “Put the skeins in two saucepans and knit for yourself”.

The essence of the idea is not what to put the skeins in. It often happens like this: when the thread in a ball runs out, this ball begins to “jump and jump” when passing the next row. And it might even fly off the table.

When the skein is full, the thread calmly slides off it, the bobbin does not even budge. But when the thread in the skein runs out, it becomes very light. The carriage passes quickly, the thread should also unwind quickly, that is, the cone rotates at high speed, rushing around the table. When it “flies” off the table, picking it up is troublesome.

To avoid this, we place small balls and incomplete bobbins in a container in advance. For example, in a cup (two or three liters in volume). Then, when rotating, they hit its edges, but do not fall. Accordingly, they do not interfere with knitting.

Fifth. What yarn can you knit on the Silver machine?Is it true that cotton is not suitable for it?

I will answer briefly here. The Silver Reed 840 is a great car. We knit on it with acrylic, semi-wool (blend wool), linen thread, and cotton thread.

Cotton knits perfectly both bobbin and hand knitted. elm (for example, "Coco", "Pelican"). Knitting stitch, openwork, elastic bands - everything works out. The main thing is to choose them correctly according to the thickness (density) that the machine “takes”. More on this below.

Sixth. Can I use hand knitting thread on the Silver Reed 840?

To find the answer to the same question, at the very beginning of our training we had to “shove through” a lot of different Internet resources. As for the yarn in bobbins, intended specifically for machine knitting, there were no special problems. In online stores selling threads, it is easy to read all the data on threads: composition, density, etc.

There was very little information regarding knitting with yarn intended for hand knitting. In the end, I had to find out experimentally. We bought different yarns intended for hand knitting and started knitting.

And they found out that for our Silver Reed class 5 machine, yarn in the range of 300 - 600 m/100g is suitable. Let me remind you that before knitting, such threads are first rewound. Now we constantly knit hats, scarves, and shirtfronts with such threads.

We also tried thicker threads, 220-250 m/100 g. The machine knits, albeit with difficulty. But the canvas is not very attractive, it costs a lot.

Seventh. What to do if the loops on the edge of the canvas keep falling off?

To prevent the thread along the edge of the canvas from flying off the needles, every 10 rows we hang and rehang edge weights.

Let's do it like this. When 20 rows are knitted, from two edges, in turn, we feel for the beginning of the knitting and carefully pull it down. At this moment, you need to look not under the machine (you can’t see anything there anyway), but at the needles of the place where you are doing the pull. You can immediately see that they are aligned and the thread “fits” into the groove of the needle. They pulled it back with their hand and hung the load. Repeated on the right side. I usually knit while standing, so I squat down. If I'm sitting on a chair, I just lean to the left, then to the right.

The above applies to double-ply knitting. Naturally, with one pattern it is easier to observe what is happening during the knitting process. And it’s easier to re-weight the loads.

It may seem like a hassle to do all these extra movements with weights. Yes, this is an additional load on all muscles. But now we have practically forgotten about the dropped loops at the moment when part of the fabric is knitted. It happens, but rarely.

By the way, we showed another “secret” with a video lesson “”. It seems like a simple question, but it’s asked often.

Eighth. Why hang weights?

We, too, at first could not understand the meaning of this action. Why is it necessary to immediately attach the comb, and then the weights? What will happen if you don’t hang it?

Now, of course, we understand that if this is not done in a timely manner, the loops can (and will) jump out of the needles. In general, knitting will not work. This has already been said above when it came to hanging edge weights, I will not repeat it.

But, since we are talking about the mounted comb, I want to add some information from personal experience.

The spokes in the load holder comb can be changed. They are sold in some stores. Let's say we bought it at Verbena. Sellers call this knitting needle simply - “rod”.

The fact is that as a result of our experiments with thick thread, our rod quite quickly lost its shape and was completely bent. As a result, we have a serious problem. Every time I threaded it into the comb, I had to suffer. The knitting needle stuck everywhere, it didn’t want to fit into the holes. Especially at the end of the line, when there were 7-10 centimeters left.

It would seem that it would be easier to replace everything. But buying it turned out to be difficult. Firstly, because they are not sold in all the stores where we got the yarn. Secondly, a couple of times when we came to a store where they can still be found on sale, and asked about the knitting needle, we heard that “they are already sold out.” Recently I finally managed to buy these precious rods (they took two at once, 120 rubles each) and breathe freely.

So, the conclusion is this: it is better to handle the knitting needle in the tension comb with care. It seems like a small thing, but it turns out it’s not at all.

____________________________________________________________________

That's all for today. Thank you for your attention. I hope the article will be useful to those who are at the beginning of their creative journey in machine knitting.

Best regards, Saule Vagapova

Seal

To choose a knitting machine for your home, you need to decide on the necessary functions. After purchasing, learn the basics of knitting. And then it will be easier to master the capabilities of the knitting machine.

Differences between machine and hand knitting

Hand knitting, compared to machine knitting, not only takes a lot of time, but also has a number of differences.

Visual differences between machine knitting and hand knitting:

Technological and financial differences:

How does a knitting machine for home use work?

When knitting by hand, all the loops sit on one needle, and the second is needed to knit the loops. In the machine, each loop is on its own needle, and the carriage plays the role of the second knitting needle. The device on which all the needles are located is called a needle bed.

The knitting process involves two nodes: the needle bed and the carriage. There are thread tension regulators on the stand. The density of the fabric is adjusted with a special disk in the carriage. The higher the value set, the larger the loop and the lower the density.
The thread is fed from the ball. You lay it on the open tongues of the needles and after the outer needle into the carriage.
The carriage, when moving along the rails along the needle bar, moves the needles from one position to another. Loops form.
After several movements of the carriage from one end to the other, a canvas is obtained.
A counter is installed behind the needle bed, counting each row.

Types and types of devices

Fantura is a pincushion. Types of knitting machines by number of needle beds:

Knitting machines differ in the way they are programmed:

manual. All patterns are made by hand;

punched cards. Patterns are made using punched cards. 20–30 pieces are included in the set. If you need other patterns, you buy them at the store or buy blank punch cards and use a punch to punch in your patterns. Hammer sold separately;

electronic. A twisted cord going to the carriage transmits information from the computer to the knitting machine. The computer tells the carriage how it needs to knit on these needles now. You can knit jacquard, openwork and other patterns in this way. The knitting program is simple and does not require many technical resources.

Knitting machine class

The knitting machine class indicates the number of needles per inch. For example, seventh grade - seven needles per inch. The needles on the seventh grade are thinner and more frequently spaced than on the third grade, where there are three needles per inch. And the yarns for these machines are also different. A seventh grader can knit thin yarn in one ply but will not be able to knit thick yarn. Fine yarn is 1400 meters per 100 g. The result is a thin, soft, flexible fabric. A fifth class knitting machine can knit 350 meters per 100 g. A third class machine will not be able to knit 1400 meters of thread in one ply. She will need 5-6 additions.

Household machines are of the third, fourth, fifth and seventh classes. Tenth grade is very rare. Such machines are used in the studio. The most common is the fifth. It comes with the largest number of additional tools that can make your work easier.

Which car is better to choose for your home?

First decide what you will knit in order to choose the right machine class. For example, thick hats are third class, very thin things are seventh class. Average thickness and a universal approach to choosing yarn are fifth class. For a seventh-class machine, one fantura holds 250 needles, for a third-class machine, 110 needles. Accordingly, the canvas will be of different thicknesses and different widths;
do you need a second fantur? It creates difficulties in learning and working. But its absence limits the variety of knitting;
an electronic machine requires a power source, but a punched card or manual machine does not;
focus on price. If you are on a budget, then look at manual machines. They are much cheaper, easy to operate and maintain;
Consider workplace preparation. For two-fanture devices you need a strong table. Manual machines are more compact and weigh up to 5 kg;
As for manufacturers, among punched card and electronic devices, foreign ones are more reliable. If you prefer Russian production, then take a manual machine. It's portable. There is no need to allocate a special place. The machine will fit on the coffee table. You can knit by placing it on your knees. This machine is easy to put away every day in a box or closet. It will easily fit into your bag. Russian manual machines last a very long time. On websites selling used goods you can find knitting machines made in the USSR in good condition;
To get a better idea of the machines, go to a place where you can see them in action and move the carriage. If you don't know anyone like that, go to a store that sells knitting machines. Presentations and training are held there. The first trial lesson is free. Try knitting. If this is not possible, watch more videos.

Consumer Reviews

Manual two-fold knitting machine Ivushka, price 3900 rub.

I can knit quite well with knitting needles and crochet, but with Ivushka it turns out much faster and more accurately than by hand. The knitting speed on such a machine is up to 10 times faster than on knitting needles. And, importantly, on “Ivushka” it is possible to knit patterns that are impossible to knit on knitting needles!
The machine is very compact, only 35 cm in length and you don’t need a special table for knitting; you can even knit by simply placing the machine on your knees while sitting on the sofa. It weighs very little, only about one kilogram.
I had no idea that such a small “thing” could do so much!!!
“Ivushka” is a two-piece machine, which allows you to knit in the round without a seam, for example, socks or mittens.
Ustyuzhanka
http://otzovik.com/review_3551271.html

Manual single-fold knitting machine Silver Reed LK-150, price 22,700 rub.

Has a lightweight plastic body. Metal needles. Nice carriage with the ability to adjust the knitting density. By the way, the yarn can be used both thin (as for knitting on needles No. 2) and quite thick. Row counter. The patterns are all made by re-hanging the loops, according to the diagrams. In fact, for the money this is a very worthy thing. But, as I understand, it’s not for me) For those who do not suffer from a lack of perseverance, she will undoubtedly become an excellent assistant. I continue to knit and will wait for the return of my original desire to have a Silver Reed LK-150 knitting machine))
http://otzovik.com/review_604508.html

Electronic two-fold knitting machine Silver Reed SK840/SRP60N, price complete with electronics RUR 197,990.

The machine itself is manual, not automated. But a computer module is sold for it with the ability to help with long-term knitting of large parts. It cuts your knitting time in half.
Many people think that with a computer module the machine will knit itself! NO. The machine does not knit itself. The module only gives signals when to change the thread on the machine, remove, join, add loops, how many rows are knitted, what other operations to perform during knitting, cross loops. But all operations must be carried out manually. The computer only helps you not to remember and not to monitor the need to perform manual operations.
Sensors are installed on the machine on both sides of the needle beds, and they send a signal to the computer about the progress of the program.
sashabon89
http://otzovik.com/review_3550912.html

Double-punched card knitting machine Brother KR-838, price 74,400 rub.

I love to knit. For the soul and when you have free time. On Brother you can quickly and accurately knit almost any idea. Regular knitting, knitting with a pattern in two colors in different ways (you can do it in three, if you get the hang of it in a certain way), knitting with an elastic band, openwork, BRAIDS, circular. In general, almost any whim)
A big plus is that the mechanics are simple and trouble-free. I've never had anything break before. Once there was a problem because the second font was in the wrong condition for a long time (I secured it incorrectly and forgot about the machine for two months) and sagged. The problem was quickly resolved on the spot by simply tightening the fastening screws. Not a single spoke has broken in 10 years of use.
In addition to the machine, you can buy a set of punched cards with a puncher for creating your own drawings (the basic set of the machine includes about 20 punched cards), a reversible carriage and some other gadgets. I didn’t buy it, the base was enough for me.
Olesilla
http://otzovik.com/review_31205.html

How to use a knitting machine

If the machine is new or has not been used for a long time, it must be lubricated after installation. And only after that start working.

Take machine oil and drip it along the pincushion rail. Add oil to the sponge and run it along the rail. Pull out all the needles and lubricate them with a sponge. Also lubricate the lining of the carriage that runs along the rail. Place the carriage on the needle bar and move it several times along the entire needle bar.
Insert the yarn into the thread separator. On the carriage, set the working density that is suitable for your yarn. For example, for a skein of 300 meters per 100 g, density 6 is suitable.
Using a comb, move the needles to the forward non-working position. Prepare the first row by winding the thread on the needles.
Thread the thread into the carriage thread guide. Draw the first row from right to left. If a guy is needed, hang a tension comb.
Continue knitting by driving the carriage along the needle bed.

How to operate a knitting machine: video tutorial

Features of working on different machines:

two-fanture. Knitting occurs on both fanturs at the same time. The same settings are set on the lower carriage as on the upper one. The carriages are connected by the shoulder so that they move simultaneously;
punched card Here you do not need to manually constantly set different positions of the needles when knitting a pattern. The machine will do this itself using punched cards that are inserted into a special device;
electronic. A computer works instead of punch cards. You draw a pattern in a special program and choose colors. And the machine, controlled by electronics, will control the position of the needles and color setting.

Additional devices

There are additional devices on sale that make work easier and expand knitting capabilities:

deckers. Comes complete with knitting machine. They are needed to perform operations with needles and loops;
selected combs. For extending needles. They come with different selection rhythms, that is, through one, two or three needles;
pull comb. Loads of varying weights are hung into its holes;
weights. They are attached to the edge of the product so that it is knitted evenly;
medical device. You make a pattern, and the device shows you when to add or decrease stitches;
automatic color changing device. You insert threads of different colors into special holders. You press the buttons and the desired colors are knitted;
transfer carriage. Needed for a quick transition from simple knitting to elastic;
linker carriage. To close the last row and connect parts only in a straight line;
deck carriage. For openwork;
kettelny machine. With its help you can connect any parts. The stitching will look like a product purchased in a store;
hammer drill To create your own patterns;
winder of yarn.

Maintenance and Troubleshooting

Replacing the pressure plate

we knit EVERYTHING with the help of CHV

Crew neck formation

To begin decreasing stitches to form a round neckline, we make the following calculation:
a) determine how many loops are in a segment equal to 7.2 cm according to the construction of the drawing: 3 loops X X 7.2 and 22 loops;
b) calculate how many rows will be knitted at a distance of 8.2 cm: 4.2 rows X 8.2 and 34 rows.
Let's consider decreasing the neck loops when knitting a solid front (for a sweater, jumper, dress). We calculate the reduction of loops for one half of the neck.
In our example, we need to decrease 22 loops in each half of the neck. We decrease the loops in approximately the following sequence: the first time we decrease 6-8 loops to the right and left from the middle of the neck, the second time - 3-4 loops (can be repeated two or three times), the third time - 2-3 loops (can be repeated three or four times). We decrease the remaining loops one by one.
We distribute the decrease, regardless of the number of loops, to the middle of the depth of the neckline, i.e. at a distance of the first 3-4 cm.
In our example, we decrease 22 loops at a distance of 16-17 rows in eight steps (6, 4, 3, 3, 2, 2, 1 and 1 loop). We knit the remaining 17-18 rows evenly.
We begin to decrease the loops along the front side of the work (Fig. 271).

271 (Fig. 271) Scheme for decreasing neck loops with a round neckline

Having knitted according to the pattern to the neckline, we divide the entire number of loops into two equal parts and then knit in the following sequence:
1st row (front side) - from the beginning to the middle of the row we knit with the thread of the main ball. In the center of the neckline, we attach a thread from an additional ball, close 6 loops with a pigtail (as when fastening a sample) and knit the front row to the end;
2nd row (wrong side) - knit according to the pattern. On the neck side, we knit the last two loops together purlwise (to get a smooth line of decreasing loops), leave the thread of the additional ball, take the thread of the main ball, close 6 loops with a pigtail (purl loops) and knit the row to the end;
3rd row (front side) - after knitting to the neckline, we knit the last 2 loops together with the front one, leave the thread of the main ball, take the additional thread, close 3 loops with a braid and tie the row to the end;
4th row (wrong side) - knit to the neckline, knit the last 2 loops together, leave the thread of the additional ball, take the main thread, close 3 loops with a braid and knit the row to the end;
5th and 7th rows - from the neck side we knit 2 loops together with the main thread, and then close 2 loops with a pigtail thread of an additional ball;
6th and 8th rows - from the neck side we knit the last 2 loops together with the thread of the additional ball, then close the 2 loops with a braid with the thread of the main ball.
So we gradually decrease 22 loops on each side of the neck. Next we knit evenly.
Reducing the neck loops in the fronts, which are knitted simultaneously with the bar, is done in the same way as indicated in the calculation for a solid front, but in the first row we close all the loops of the bar with a braid in one step. We reduce the remaining number of loops, counting them from the center of the bar according to the pattern.
Reducing neck loops can be done by partial knitting. In this case, open loops are kept along the neckline for further knitting of a stand-up or a solid knitted collar.
Consider decreasing the stitches in each half of the neckline using partial knitting:
1st row (front side) - at the beginning we knit the loops of the right half of the front, on the left knitting needle we leave the loops of the left half plus 6 loops from the right half of the neck unknitted. Turn the work to the wrong side and knit according to the pattern;
3rd row - at the beginning we knit the loops of the right half of the front, on the left knitting needle we leave the loops of the left half of the front plus 10 loops (6 loops + 4 loops) from the right half of the neck unknitted. Turn the work to the wrong side and knit according to the pattern.
So gradually on the left knitting needle we leave all the loops unknitted, intended to form the cutout of the right half of the neckline, i.e. 6, 4, 3, 3, 2, 2 and 1 loop. Next, from the neck side we knit exactly 17-18 rows. Having finished knitting the right half of the front (when all the loops along the shoulder bevel are decreased), we proceed to knitting the left half. To do this, using the right knitting needle, we pull out new loops from the edge loops of the flat part of the neckline. In the flat part of the neckline, 18 rows were knitted, which formed 9 braid loops along the side edge (18:2). Consequently, we pull out 9 additional loops along the side edge and get 31 loops in the right half of the neck (22 loops 4-9 loops). We knit all the loops to the end of the row and, from the wrong side of the work, begin to partially knit the left half of the neckline. We knit the left half in the same way as the right. Having finished knitting the left half and having received 31 loops on the knitting needle, we knit all the loops of the neck (31 loops + 31 loops = 62 loops). We finish knitting with an auxiliary thread or transfer the loops to a spare knitting needle.
When designing the neck of products without a fastener, you should increase the neckline by 2-3 cm around the entire circumference. For this neck shape, it is recommended to distribute the decrease in stitches along the entire length of the oval. In this case, the loops are decreased at a distance of 34 rows, i.e. in 17 techniques, which means that the reduction of loops will have to be done not in each row, but after a certain number of rows.
In our example, we need to decrease 22 loops in the following sequence: 7, 5 and 3 loops every other row and seven times 1 loop in every 4th row.

Reducing stitches along the sleeve head line

Having knitted to the armhole line, we calculate the decrease in loops along the line of the sleeve head. To correctly calculate the decrease in the loops of the sleeve head, we divide the height of the sleeve head into three equal parts (Fig. 272).

272 (Fig. 272) Scheme for decreasing loops along the edging line of the sleeve head

According to the construction of the drawing, the segment is equal to 16 cm: 16 cm: 3 = 5.3 cm.
We get points K and K1. Draw a horizontal line through point K1. The points of intersection with the okat line are designated by the letters K2 and K3 (see drawing). Section KChK3 - control line. We determine how many rows will be knitted in each part: 4.2 rows X 5.3 ~ 22 rows.
The size of the segment GKhG2 (sleeve width along the armhole line) is 36 cm, or 108 loops (3 loops X 36 cm = 108 loops). Therefore, along the cuff line of the sleeve, you need to decrease 108 loops. We calculate the decrease in loops of the sleeve head for each half separately.
Let's consider decreasing the loops from the back, i.e. on the left. On the finished drawing we measure the size of the segment K2K: K2K1 = 8.1 cm, or 3 loops X 8.1 “24 loops.

The segment G,G is equal to 54 loops (108 loops: 2). We determine how many loops need to be reduced from the armhole line to the beginning of the third part, i.e. to the control line K2K3. To do this, from the number of loops in segment D, subtract the number of loops in segment KK1: 54 loops - 24 loops = 30 loops.
Thus, it is necessary to distribute the decrease of 30 loops over a distance of 44 rows (the number of rows of the first and second parts).
From the armhole line, we first decrease the number of loops equal to the first 4-5 decreases made along the lower edge of the back armhole (segment G1G2). In our example, in the left half of the sleeve head we will decrease: 5, 3, three times 2 and 10 times 1 loop in every 2nd row, i.e. every other row. and then three times 1 loop in every 4th row. We begin decreasing stitches at the beginning of the purl row.
Let's consider decreasing the loops along the line of the sleeve head from the front, i.e. on the right.
The G2G segment is equal to 1/2 of the G1G2 segment or 54 loops (108 loops: 2).
The KKH segment when measured is 6.9 cm: 3 loops X 6.9 “21 loops.
Therefore, on the right we decrease 33 loops (54 loops - 21 loops). From the armhole line, we first decrease the number of loops equal to the first 3-4 decreases made along the lower edge of the front armhole. In our example, in the right half of the sleeve head we will decrease: 6, 4, 3, 2 loops and 17 times 1 loop in every 2nd row. We begin decreasing stitches at the beginning of the front row.
We calculate the decrease in loops in the third part. Along the K2K3 line we have 45 loops (24 loops + 21 loops), which must be decreased at a distance of 22 rows.
It is recommended to leave a flat part (8-12 loops) at the top of the okat, which means that you only need to subtract 37 loops (45 loops - 8 loops).
On the left we decrease the loops in the following sequence: seven times 1 and three times 4 loops in every second row, and on the right eight times 1, two times 3 and once 4 loops in each 2nd row, close the remaining 8 loops in one braid technique.

Additional dart in the armhole

Starting from size 48 (in cases where the product is knitted in stocking stitch), we recommend making an additional dart in the armhole. The length of the dart for all sizes is within 3-5 cm, and its depth does not exceed 1.5-2.5 cm. We perform the dart by partial knitting in elongated rows, which we knit from the middle of the fabric to the outer edge of the armhole.
To perform a dart, we make the following calculation:
a) determine how many loops there will be along the length of the dart: 3 loops X 5 = 15 loops « 16 (rounded to an even number);
b) calculate the number of rows according to the depth of the dart. The tuck depth is 2 cm, making 8 rows (4.2 rows X 2), or 4 phases;
c) determine how many loops we will lengthen each row by when knitting an additional dart: 16 loops: 4 = 4 loops.
Let's consider knitting an additional dart in the right front.
The width of the shelf including the fastener bar is 29 cm, or 87 loops (3 loops X 29 = 87 loops).
We begin knitting an additional dart after we complete the first 4 decreases (phases) along the lower edge of the armhole, i.e. when on the left knitting needle at the end of the front row there are 15 loops unknitted (6, 4, 3 and 2 loops), and 8 rows are knitted from the armhole line (Fig. 270). Next we knit like this:
9th row (front side) - knit 45 loops, do not knit the remaining 42 on the left knitting needle. Turn the work to the wrong side. Thus, on the left knitting needle all the loops of the lower edge of the armhole and the loops intended for additional dart remain unknitted (26 loops + 16 loops = 42 loops);
10th row (wrong side) - knit 45 loops according to the pattern;
11th row - knit 49 loops (45 loops + 4 loops), do not knit the remaining 38 loops on the left knitting needle. Turn the work to the wrong side

270 (Fig. 270) Pattern for decreasing loops in the armhole and knitting an additional dart

Completed the 1st phase of partial knitting with extended rows);
12th row - knit 49 loops according to the pattern;
13th row - knit 53 loops (49 loops + 4 loops), do not knit the remaining 34 loops on the left knitting needle. We turn the work to the wrong side (we completed the 2nd phase);
14th row - knit 53 loops according to the pattern;
15th row - knit 57 loops (53 loops + 4 loops), do not knit the remaining 30 loops on the left knitting needle. We turn the work to the wrong side (we completed the 3rd phase);
16th row - knit 57 loops according to the pattern;
17th row - knit 72 loops:
Thus, 15 loops remain unknitted on the left knitting needle, as before the start of knitting the additional dart.
From this row we continue the interrupted decrease in stitches along the lower edge of the armhole. At the end of the front row, we leave 1 loop undone seven more times (see “Decreasing loops along the lower edge of the front armhole”). When 22 loops are left unknitted on the left knitting needle from the armhole side, we knit the front row, and at the beginning of the next row we close 22 loops with a braid.
Then we knit strictly according to the pattern and, according to the calculation, we decrease four more times, 1 loop in every 4th row from the armhole side, i.e., a total of 26 loops are decreased along the lower edge of the front armhole.
When knitting an additional dart, you can reduce the distance from the armhole line to the beginning of the shoulder bevel by 1 cm.
Thus, when knitting a front for large sizes, you can use any type of dart. You can combine a side dart and an additional side dart
and horizontal, but the entire length of the finished product should be taken into account.
We calculate and perform the reduction of loops along the shoulder bevel in the same way as when knitting the back.

Decrease stitches along the bottom edge of the front armhole

We decrease the loops along the lower edge of the armhole on the section G6G7. We determine the size of the segments in the same way as when calculating the backrest. If you need to decrease a small number of stitches along the lower edge of the armhole (16-18 stitches), do this in the same way as when knitting the back. But when knitting large items along the lower edge of the armhole, it is necessary to reduce a larger number of loops - from 25 to 45 loops, depending on the knitting density and the size of the segment. In our example, the length of the segment is 8.5 cm: 3 loops X 8.5 ~ 26 loops.
The size of the segment G7PA is 8.5 cm, or: 4.2 rows X 8.5 « 36 rows.
Therefore, you need to decrease 26 loops at a distance of 36 rows, or in 18 steps (phases).
You can decrease the loops by using partial knitting in short rows or covering them with a braid, as when finishing knitting, i.e., the same way as in the back.
We decrease the loops in approximately the following sequence: the first time we decrease 6-7 loops, the second time - 4-5 loops, the third time - 3-4 loops (can be repeated two or three times), the fourth time - 2-3 loops (can be repeated two or three times). We decrease the remaining loops, casting off 1 loop each time, i.e., knitting 2 loops together.
In our example, we decrease 6, 4, 3, 2 loops, seven times 1 loop in every 2nd row and four times 1 loop in every 4th row.
When covering the loops of the last row, you can pull the last row or knit 2-3 loops together to get a slight fit of the fabric along the lower edge of the armhole.
To the line of the shoulder bevel at the distance of the segment we add from 4 to 6 loops (if required by the pattern). We calculate the addition of loops in the same way as when knitting the back (at the distance of the segment). In some cases (very narrow shoulders), we decrease loops from the armhole line to the beginning of the shoulder bevel.

Formation of a horizontal (radial) dart

When knitting items with a sewn-in sleeve of small sizes, we lengthen the front, as in a jacket with a raglan sleeve. If we knit a product of a large size, starting from the 50th, it is recommended to use a horizontal dart.
We obtain such a dart by partial knitting in long and shortened rows (it is recommended to use the second method of partial knitting). The dart line is located at a distance of 4-6 cm from the armhole line. To start making the tuck, you should make the following calculation:
a) determine the depth of the dart. In our example, the depth of the dart is 3 cm (see “Calculating the balance of the product”);
b) determine the length of the dart. We set the length of the dart in the same way as when knitting a jacket with sleeves
raglan (see “Horizontal dart”). In our example, the length of the dart is 15 cm. We calculate the number of loops along the length of the dart: 3 loops X 15 = 45 loops;
c) we establish how many rows need to be knitted at a distance of 3 cm (dart depth): 4.2 rows x 3 ~ « 12 rows (rounded to an even number of rows).
The tuck is done in two types of partial knitting. We distribute 6 rows for each type of knitting (12 rows: 2 or 3 phases.
We determine how many loops we will lengthen or shorten the row in one phase: 45 loops: 3 = 15 loops.
Let's consider the technology of knitting a horizontal dart in the right shelf (Fig. 269). The first half of the dart is made in long rows from the middle of the fabric towards the side line, and the second half in short rows from the side line towards the middle of the fabric. The width of the shelf together with the strap is 29 cm, of which we knit 25 cm (3 loops X 25 cm = 75 loops) with a shelf pattern and 4 cm (3 loops X 4 cm = 12 loops) with a strip pattern. For the entire width of the shelf, cast on 87 loops (3 loops X 29 cm = 87 loops).
Having knitted to the dart line, we begin to knit in extended rows:
1st row (front side) - at the beginning of the row we knit 57 loops according to the pattern (of which 15 loops are intended for darts), we do not knit the remaining 30 loops on the left knitting needle until the end of the row. Turn the work to the wrong side;

269 (Fig. 269) Knitting pattern for horizontal dart

2nd row (wrong side) - knit 57 loops according to the pattern;
3rd row - at the beginning of the row we knit 72 loops according to the pattern (of which 30 loops are intended for darts), we do not knit the remaining 15 loops on the left knitting needle until the end of the row. Turn the work to the wrong side;
4th row - knit 72 loops according to the pattern;
5th and 6th rows - knit all the loops of the row to the end.
We knit the second half of the dart in short rows;
7th row - at the beginning of the row we knit 72 loops according to the pattern, we do not knit the remaining 15 loops on the left knitting needle until the end of the row. Turn the work to the wrong side;
8th row - knit 72 loops according to the pattern;
9th row - at the beginning of the row we knit 57 loops, the remaining 30 loops on the left knitting needle are not knitted until the end of the row. Turn the work to the wrong side;
10th row - knit 57 loops according to the pattern;
11th row - at the beginning of the row we knit 42 loops, the remaining 45 loops on the left knitting needle are not knitted until the end of the row. Turn the work to the wrong side;
12th row - knit 42 loops according to the pattern;
13th row - knit all 87 loops of the row to the end.

Formation of the shoulder bevel line

To determine in what sequence it is necessary to decrease the loops along the shoulder bevel PHA2, we make the following calculation:
a) according to the finished drawing, we establish the size of the segment Pha: P^a = 14 cm, or 3 loops X 14 = 42 loops;
b) determine how many rows will be knitted in segment A^a equal to 5.8 cm (height of the shoulder bevel): 4.2 rows 5.8 ~ 24 rows;
c) we decrease the loops along the shoulder bevel, covering them with a pigtail, as at the end of knitting, or using partial knitting in shortened rows. In any case, we decrease 42 loops in 12 steps, or 12 phases (24 rows: 2);
d) determine how many loops need to be decreased in one step: 42 loops: 12 = 3.5 loops. When dividing, we get a fractional number, so we will decrease, alternating 3 and 4 loops.
Using the technique of fastening the loops with a pigtail, at the beginning of each row we close off 2 loops, in the next decrease - 3, and at the end of each row we knit the last 2 loops together. As a result of this decrease, we get a smooth line of the shoulder bevel.
When decreasing loops by partial knitting at the end of each row on the left knitting needle, leave 3 loops unknitted once, 4 loops another time - until 42 loops remain unknitted on each side. Then we knit all the loops along the shoulder bevel and close them in a row with a pigtail.
We decrease the sprout stitches in the same way as when knitting a jacket with raglan sleeves.

Product balance calculation

Good fit of the product depends on determining the balance, i.e. the difference between the length of the back to the waist and the actual length of the front to the waist.
In our example, the length of the back to the waist is 39.5 cm. The length of the front, measured from the 7th cervical vertebra (Fig. 255), is 53.5 cm. [Next...] To more accurately determine the actual length of the front to the waist, subtract from this value the distance along the curve from the 7th cervical vertebra to the highest point of the neck, i.e. the value of the segment AA2 (we measure it according to the drawing with a centimeter placed on the edge): AA2 = 7.8 cm.
Therefore, the actual front length will be: 53.5 cm - 7.8 cm = 45.7 cm.
Now, to establish the balance value, subtract the back length from the actual length of the front: 45.7 cm - 39.5 cm = 6.2 cm.
Thus, the front should be 6.2 cm longer than the back.
We check the length of the front to the waist in the drawing. The proposed construction provides for an increase in the shelf for all sizes by 3.5-4 cm. This value includes 1 cm (allowance for the length of the back for the convexity of the shoulder blades) plus the height of the sprout (segment A1A2), equal to 2.5-3 cm. Therefore, the length the front in the finished drawing is equal to the length of the back to the waist (39.5 cm) plus the increase (1 cm + 2.5 cm = 3.5 cm): 39.5 cm + 3.5 cm = 43 cm.
In order to determine the amount by which the front will need to be lengthened when knitting, the value taken to increase the front when constructing the drawing should be subtracted from the balance value of the product. In our example: 6.2 cm - 3.5 cm » 3 cm.
Therefore, when knitting, you need to lengthen the front by 3 cm. The resulting value can serve as the depth of the dart.
You can also set the depth of the dart in another way: from the actual length of the front to the waist, subtract the length of the front obtained when constructing the drawing: 45.7 cm - 43 cm = “3 cm.

The second method of decreasing armhole loops

Decreasing stitches along the lower edge of the armhole can be done by partial knitting in short rows. To do this, at the end of each row we leave the loops unknitted in the following sequence: 5, 3, 2 and 1 loop, i.e. the number of loops that, according to the calculation, we decrease in each row.
To finish partial knitting, first on the front side of the work, and then on the wrong side, we knit all the loops to the end of the row, and at the beginning of the next row we close off 14 loops with a braid. The remaining loops that still need to be decreased (in our example there are 4 loops, i.e. 18 loops - 14 loops), we decrease 1 loop in every 4th row. In total we decrease 18 loops on each side of the back.
Next we knit, adding loops along the G3P line (if the shape of the pattern requires it). To determine how many loops the back should be expanded to the beginning of the shoulder bevel, you should mark on the drawing of the back the point of intersection of the line of the beginning of the shoulder bevel with the vertical line A3G, the letter P.

268 (Fig. 268) Scheme for decreasing loops along the lower edge of the back armhole

We measure the size of the segment Pkhp according to the finished drawing. In our example P1, n = 1.7 cm, or 3 loops X 1.7 « 5 loops. Also, using the finished drawing, we measure the size of the segment G3p: G3i = 13.6 cm, or 4.2 rows X 13.6 “ ~ 57 rows.
We determine how many rows we will add loops: 57 rows: 5 = 11 rows.
Therefore, in every 11th row we will add 1 loop on both sides.

The first method of decreasing armhole loops

Let us consider in detail the decrease of 18 loops at a distance of 25 rows (Fig. 268). We start decreasing the loops from the front side of the work:
1st row (front side) - at the beginning of the row with facial loops we close 5 loops with a braid, as at the end of knitting, and knit the row to the end;
2nd row (wrong side) - at the beginning of the row we purl 5 loops with a braid, and at the end of the row we knit the last two loops together with a purl;
Let us remember that if, when decreasing loops at the end of each row, the last 2 loops are knitted together, then at the beginning of the next row one less loop is decreased than indicated in the calculation.
So, for example, at the beginning of the 3rd row we close with a braid not 3, but only 2 loops. As a result of this decrease, we get a smooth line of decreasing loops.
3rd and 5th rows (front side) - at the beginning we close 2 loops with a braid, and at the end of the row we knit the last 2 loops together with the front one;
4th and 6th rows (wrong side) - at the beginning we close 2 loops with a braid, and at the end of the row we knit 2 loops together with the wrong side;
7th and 9th rows - at the beginning and at the end of the row we knit 2 stitches together;
8th row - at the beginning and at the end of the row we knit 2 loops together purlwise;
10th row - at the beginning we knit the first 2 loops together purlwise.
Thus, in 10 rows on each side, 15 loops were decreased, therefore, 3 more loops need to be decreased:
a) on the front side of the work in the 13th, 17th and 21st rows we decrease 1 loop each, knitting the first 2 loops together at the beginning of the row;
b) on the wrong side of the work in the 14th, 18th and 22nd rows we also decrease 1 loop each, knitting the first 2 loops together at the beginning of the row.

Decrease stitches along the bottom edge of the armhole

According to the construction of the drawing, the size of the segment G,G2 (the lower edge of the armhole) is equal to 6 cm. We determine how many loops need to be subtracted in the segment GKG2: 3 loops X 6 = 18 loops.
We decrease the loops at a distance of segment GCH3 equal to 6 cm. We determine how many will be
knitted rows: 4.2 rows x 6 = ~ 25 rows.
Therefore, at approximately a distance of 25 rows on each side, we decrease 18 loops.
We decrease loops along the lower edge of the armhole (when knitting any size) in approximately the following sequence:
a) for the first time we decrease (close with a braid, as at the end of knitting) from 4 to 6 loops;
b) the second time - 3 loops each (this decrease can be repeated 2-3 times);
c) for the third and fourth times - 2 loops each (can be repeated 3-4 times). We decrease the remaining loops, casting off 1 loop in every second row (or after 3 rows in the 4th).
In our example, we decrease 18 loops in the following sequence: 5, 3, 3, 2 and 1 loop in every second row, i.e. every other row. We decrease the remaining 4 loops by 1 loop every 3 rows in the 4th.

Knitting is not an easy process, requiring creativity and imagination. Using a knitting machine you can create things that no one else will have. How to knit on a knitting machine, how to choose yarn for future masterpieces? Find out in this article.

Photo and video of knitting machine

If you have children, then a knitting machine is an indispensable assistant for a mother. They grow quickly, they need new clothes every year, but it is not always possible to update their wardrobe. Parents can be sure that things are not only beautiful and unique, but also safe for health.

Benefits of using a knitting machine

Knitting on modern machines is fun and easy; models equipped with computer control are especially popular. Photos of knitting machines of this type can be viewed on the Internet and you can choose the ideal option. The work will be a pleasure.

How do they work? You just need to enter the finished drawing from the disk and set the program to the machine. She will do all the work herself, you just need to monitor the process. Reviews of knitting machines, which needlewomen are happy to share on thematic forums, will help you choose reliable equipment.

How to knit on a knitting machine

How to master this miracle technique? Let's consider the main stages of work:

1. Preparation of yarn. In order for the item to turn out to be of high quality, it is important to approach the choice of threads responsibly. If you are working on a machine for the first time, you should choose yarn of medium thickness. If it is unwound, then it is necessary to wind it into a ball so that the thread runs smoothly.

2. You need to thread the inner end of the yarn into the machine carriage.

3. You should start knitting by selecting the first row. It is better to use the needle wrapping method. After mastering this method, you will be able to handle others easily; Next, you need to insert the thread into the tensioner so that its end is fixed near the tripod.

4. Using a comb, pull up the required number of needles and begin the process of weaving them with yarn. You need to wrap it counterclockwise, supporting it with your fingers; when the last needle remains, you will need to install the thread in the thread guide.

5. Using a comb, return the needle to its starting position. It is important to control the fiber: it should not droop or become tight.

Knitting as a process of creating irreplaceable high-quality clothes from knitwear, which is suitable for any season, has long become an integral part of modern life.

If the process of creating coziness with your own hands brings pleasure, and the thought that you will be able to create things on your own that you could only dream of before or order from expensive studios does not leave you, then machine knitting is definitely your hobby. Most needlewomen come to automate the process after mastering a hook and knitting needles, but you can immediately start working on a machine.

Knitting by car as a hobby

What are the advantages of machine knitting over other types of needlework:

You yourself create an exclusive model, being the creator of the material, style and color scheme.
A knitted item that you knit has more than one life - you can unravel it and, after some processing of the threads, knit something else, and so on until you get tired of it.
Knitted patches, knitted as a sample when calculating loops for the next model, can be used to cover stools, create a patchwork quilt, an original bag, oven mitts in the kitchen, or a warm rug for your favorite tailed pets.

Machine knitting allows you to bring the result as close as possible to the factory one, while the item always remains exclusive. If desired, this can easily be turned into an additional source of household income.

To start mastering this type of needlework, you will need not only desire, but also a special machine.

How to choose a knitting machine

Knitting machines are of great interest because they make it possible to make dreams come true. Just imagine, in one evening you can knit a blouse and come to work in it the next morning, although just yesterday you and your colleagues were looking at this model in the latest fashion magazine.

Specialized stores offer:

single-face flat knitting and double-face knitting machines;
manual or automated;
with or without software.

Single-circuit knitting machines such as “Severyanka”, “Neva-5”, Silver, Toyota knit any single knitted fabric that has a front and back side (as when knitting). With two-color machine knitting, broaches remain on the wrong side.

Double-circuit machines like Brother 965i (Brother), Silver, Toyota knit double-sided fabric and various elastic bands (2x2, 2x1, 3x1, 3x2, etc.). When knitting in two colors, there are no broaches of thread. Double-font machines are a complex and expensive device on which you can create endlessly, the possibilities are unlimited.

Knitting machines are produced in different classes; the higher the class, that is, the numbers in the marking, the thinner the knitted fabric, the smaller the diameter of the knitting needles and the thickness of the yarn. Class 5 machines are most suitable for home use. For example, “Neva-5” is a 5th class vehicle.
When choosing, consider the knitting method:

manual, when the design is created by hand on the background using special decking needles;
using a punched card on which a design is printed, and the machine knits sequentially according to this punched card;
using software.

For multi-colored knitting, the kit includes a special device; if it is not available, it must be purchased separately.

Focusing on these characteristics, taking into account your capabilities and the time that you can devote to knitting, choose a new assistant.

Features of choosing yarn

Yarn for machine knitting must be wear-resistant, elastic and at the same time durable. Woolen and half-woolen yarn No. 32/2 meets these properties. It is sold in large reels on cones. Products made from such yarn can be knitted by joining it in 3, 4 or 5 threads.

In order for the knitting fabric to be smooth, uniform and beautiful, the thread tension must be uniform. If the yarn is wound into balls, this will not happen. You can't knit from balls on a machine! Therefore, before work, it is better to rewind the yarn into bobbins using a special “winder-carousel” device.

For openwork and summer products, use cotton yarn No. 40/2; No. 34/2; No. 54/2, iris, silk and lurex. You cannot use heavily twisted yarn, as the fabric turns out to be slanted and it is impossible to straighten it. Any synthetic material, especially thin ones, should be used with caution, since when ironed, this yarn seems to “glaze over” and the product loses its attractive appearance.

When machine knitting, it is often necessary to leave loops open at the beginning or end of work. To prevent them from unraveling, use an auxiliary thread, which must be removed after finishing the work. Floss, darning, lavsan or unnecessary, waste cotton threads are suitable for this purpose.

When creating multi-colored products, do not forget that wool can fade during wet heat treatment, and therefore it is worth choosing combinations of colors used with special care. Before you start knitting the main item, you should definitely knit a test sample and steam it.

How to organize your workplace

So, you have decided to buy a knitting machine. This is a complex apparatus that requires a stable, smooth surface. An ironing board, window sill or coffee table will not work. For these purposes, it is worth allocating a separate well-lit place in the apartment so that direct rays of the sun do not fall, since the surface of the needle beds in most cases is metal and the glare of the sun will interfere with work. An additional light source is required so that every loop on the machine needles can be seen.

Workplace equipment:

ironing board;
steam iron;
winder;
measuring tape, scissors, safety pins, chalk;
knitted needles with a large eye of different sizes for knitting, pins for knitwear;
a square or rectangular frame for calculating loops and rows on a sample with centimeter markings applied;
a sewing machine, if you will sew parts of knitwear;
sewing oil in an oil dish.

All this should be within arm's reach while working. Also take note of additional information about.

Algorithm of actions when knitting on a machine

Learning to machine knit is no more difficult than mastering the technique of creating patterns with knitting needles and. As a rule, manufacturers of knitting machines include detailed operating instructions for each model.

Procedure and nuances of work

Strictly following the instructions, strengthen the needle beds of the knitting machine according to the attached drawings so that there is no vibration when knitting.
Install thread tensioners, sort out the weights: large ones for the main fabric, small ones for the edges of the knitted fabric.
Place the deckers and loop-catching needles in a separate box.
Wipe the entire machine with a flannel cloth to remove engine oil from the iron parts.
Thread the pre-prepared threads and knit the sample on the needles; you should knit at least 30 rows, while simultaneously setting the knitting density on the counter. For example, we knitted 50 rows at one density, separate them with an auxiliary thread (two rows), changed the density to a lower or higher direction, again knitted 50 rows and again with an auxiliary thread. In this case, the carriage should move without much effort.
Remove the sample from the machine, secure it to the knitting board and steam. Set the density of the knitting fabric that suits you for the product for further knitting.
Set the selected density and start knitting a test sample to calculate the loops and rows.
Secure the knitted sample to the ironing board, steam it and place a frame with centimeter divisions on it. Count the rows and loops and write everything down in a specially kept notebook so that you don’t have to return to calculating loops from this particular yarn and this particular density.

It is strongly recommended to write down all calculations and steps during work, namely: density, number of rows per hem, number of rows for decreases, increases and some other actions during the work process:

number, name and manufacturer of yarn;
number of threads of yarn;
knitting density;
quantity and weight of yarn, how much did you use for the product;
size or measurements of the product;
a drawing or sample pattern for a given product.

All these records will save you in the future from painful questions about how much yarn is needed for this or that product, from memories: what was the density, how many threads were there, and so on and so forth.

Knitting colored patterns

With the help of machine knitting, you can create original striped patterns, choosing the appropriate colors when you make the transition from dark to light shades and vice versa - in this case, you can use all the leftover yarn lying around the house.

You can make separate symmetrical and asymmetrical patterns, it is convenient to knit different animals, especially on children's clothing in two, three or more colors. Any cross pattern, which is previously applied to checkered paper or graph paper, is suitable for the ornament.

Repeating patterns on knitting machines are called jacquard. On single-face knitting machines, when knitting a jacquard manually or using a punched card (depending on the type of machine selected), broaches remain on the wrong side of the fabric, which during wear cling, stretch or tear - it is recommended to glue them with non-woven material or secure them in any other way. On double-font machines, there are no broaches when knitting jacquard.

You can get an original product if you simply make a knitted fabric and decorate it with leather patches or embroider it with lurex. It all depends only on your desire and skill, which comes with experience.

Knitting openwork fabric

The openwork fabric on single-frame machines is done by hand, almost like. For this purpose, special deckers are used, which are included with each knitting machine. Imported machines are equipped with a special carriage. The quality and variety of the openwork patterns made cannot be compared with hand knitting!

Processing of knitted products

After removal from the machine, any knitted product is folded in half lengthwise. If it is a single stitch, then it is better to baste with simple threads for fixing, so that there are even edges and carefully steam the entire fabric, do not iron, but rather steam it in order to tidy up the edges of the knitted fabric.

When machine knitting, the edges of the fabric are most deformed, and with single satin stitch, the edges also curl. Shoulder slopes are usually made with partial knitting. It is difficult to knit the neckline of products, especially on double-backed machines - therefore, the neckline is usually cut out according to the pattern of the product, the edge is carefully steamed so that the loops do not unravel, and then it is decorated with separately knitted tape, elastic or openwork tape using quilting on both sides.

On single-face machines, all publications recommend untying the neckline and then putting it on the machine needles again - this is a long process and not very neat. It’s easier to cut out the neck, carefully steam it at a distance of 1 cm from the edge, and then knit the binding from a smaller number of threads or at a high density and pin it on both sides. The choice is yours.

Safety precautions

The table on which the machine is installed must be durable and not create vibrations.
When lighting the knitting work area, use fluorescent lamps.
When working with needles, be careful - the carriage that moves them cannot be removed instantly.
Weights that are hung on a knitted fabric during work tend to fall on your feet - secure them so that this does not happen.
It is not recommended for children and animals to be in the work area to avoid injury.

Any type of handicraft is individual creativity; creating with the help of a machine means keeping up with the times! Master it to always be among the stylish ladies.